Homesteader Highlight: John Ervin, Upper Missouri River Montana

One of our favorite homesteaders stories is that of John Ervin. He might possibly be the most colorful character amongst the stories contained in our history digest. John’s homestead is located in the Badlands or “Breaks” portion of the monument. We generally stay at a campsite just downriver from his cabin. It is possible to visit the cabin certain times of the year, and if you have time to navigate the often thick willows and brush leading up to the cabin. Mainly, we love picturing John and his life in our of our favorite parts of the entire river.

Steamboats on the Missouri River - History

Fort Benton, Montana served as the innermost port for shipping and human transportation thanks to the arrival and successful voyages of steamboats. The first steamboat made the journey in 1819. This history is rich, vast and, at times, hard to even imagine. The river remains largely unchanged since this time period (and before), and if you have had the privilege of floating the river, either by canoe, kayak or raft, you will find it absolutely puzzling how those behemoth vessels managed to make their way up the river and back to St. Louis, especially considering the massive amount of cargo and people they brought.

This page serves as a collection of gathered steamboat history and reference point for additional research and learning if you are interested. We will regularly be adding to this page as we collect more!

Quick Facts about the Missouri River and Name Origin

The Missouri River’s history is profoundly rich and immeasurably impactful on the development of the west and our entire country. The name, Missouri, comes from the Indians that lived in the region, the Missouri and Ottee. From the Siouan language the name was, “Ouemessorita”, (pronounced Oh-ma-sur-ray) which literally means “people of the wooden canoe.” Later anglicized to be spelled and pronounced, Missouri. The Missouri was formed about 30 million years ago. The Missouri River is the longest river in North America and the 4th longest in the world (when combined with the Mississippi River system). There are 10 dams located on the Missouri River in Montana and another 5 dams located in North Dakota and South Dakota.

Preparing and Packing for a Canoe Trip

Montana’s Upper Missouri River is a wilderness canoe adventure taking you into the heart of central Montana by way of a mild, meandering river. We have detailed recommendations for what to pack and considerations based on the time of the year. This adventure is appropriate to all ages and ability levels, but it’s still an adventure into the wilderness. Individuals must be prepared – both physically and with proper equipment. We provide most of the necessary gear, but the personal items you bring make a big difference. Montana is also famous for its weather variations, and your equipment, which you carry in your canoe, plays a pivotal role in ensuring you pass through the entire trip, regardless of Mother Nature, in comfort and safety.

ResourcesHaley MillerJanuary 29, 2023Upper Missouri Breaks, Local Food, Canoeing, camping, Hiking, Adventure packing

Mornings on the Banks of the Missouri River

Mornings along the riverbank are undeniably peaceful and inspiring. We love mornings for many reasons, and rarely do we experience a morning that is not positively fabulous. Summer mornings are a long, serene process with several phases culminating in the delicious glow of the sun on your skin as it finally crests over the cliffs. It is the best time for birdwatching and listening to the wildlife wake for the day. We serve fresh, organic coffee before a hearty, homemade breakfast.

Designating the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument - Proclamation

Those who enjoy the Upper Missouri River today owe a debt of gratitude to those who have worked for the protection that it so eminently deserves. It is remarkably scenic; it provides recreation and serenity for thousands every year; it’s geology is fascinating; it has great potential for restoring native wildlife populations; and it played a leading role in the history of Montana and of the West.

Creation of the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument and National Wild and Scenic River was no easy task and the ensuing battles will be a mark on the areas history forever. Before this magnificent river corridor was a national monument, it was first designated a National Wild and Scenic River.

Stargazing on the Upper Missouri River

Whether you are an expert astronomer or simply enjoy the rapture of stargazing, the Upper Missouri River is one of the best places for both. Although we are technically down in a river corridor, the breadth of the sky is still extremely vast. And, if you like, at some campsites you can quickly walk up and out of the river corridor to the expansive prairie above. There is a reason Montana is called the “Big Sky State.” Ah, that moment you finally lay down in your tent, snuggle in your sleeping bag, breathe deep and peer into the endless sea of flickering stars above. As the number of wild places shrinks in our world, so does the dark places. Light pollution is certainly a reality for most people. What is the best way to get away from the dull roar of city lights? Well, go camping in a wild, remote place! Thankfully, Montana still has lots of the aforementioned and coveted forests, rivers and protected public lands.

Woodhawks and Steamboats of the Upper Missouri River

Woodhawk Creek is named for the men who set up shop on the banks of the Missouri to supply the steamboats with fuel-wood for their boilers, which consumed as many as twenty-five to thirty cords per day (a cord is basically the equivalent of the amount of wood that, when chopped, can fill the bed of a pick up truck). The ‘wookhawks’ were an independent breed of men, and the work they performed was physically demanding. They led an isolated existence and were extremely vulnerable to attacks by hostile Indians. Their lives were dangerous, and often short (okay, Hobbes).

The White Cliffs of the Upper Missouri River - Sample Itinerary and Video

The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument encompasses 149 rives miles, yet, arguably the most renown and visited section is the 46 miles stretch referred to as “The White Cliffs.” This magnificent section also corresponds with the most famous and portions of the legendary Lewis and Clark Expedition into the West. From the eloquent and mesmerizing descriptions by Meriwether Lewis in his journal entries to the countless modern texts romanticizing the landscape and formations to the innumerable dramatic photographic opportunities along the river, this river section will always be immortalized as a pivotal piece of history. Moreover, it is unique and inspiring in that you can experience the Upper Missouri River much like the early explorers and homesteaders did—undisturbed and magnificent, and hopefully, through continued efforts towards protection and conservation, this area will remain a Wild and Scenic River.

The RiverHaley MillerFebruary 16, 2022Upper Missouri Breaks, Lewis and Clark, Hiking, Camping

The Upper Missouri River Breaks or 'Badlands' - Sample Itinerary and Video

Within Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, the last section, river miles 88.5 to 149 or Judith Landing to James Kipp Recreation Area, is generally referred to as the “Breaks'“ or “Badlands” of the Upper Missouri River. Although not as famous as the White Cliffs, most guides and folks who have done both sections will report that the Badlands are their favorite. The two sections are wildly different in geology, topography, hikes, sites and wildlife. The Badlands are generally less travelled and have only one developed campsite. There are several in-tact homesteads to explore, bighorn sheep to hopefully spot and vast, towering landscape surrounding you. The ‘Breaks’ refers to how the land appears from above - it appears as though the braided, twisted and numerous drainages leading down to the river have broken the landscape.

Lewis and Clark Expedition - What was on the Menu?

Have you ever wondered what the Corps of Discovery consumed in order to battle the elements, labor those heavy boats upriver and survive the perilous journey into the West and back? The answer is: a lot!

HistoryHaley MillerJanuary 11, 2022Lewis and Clark, Upper Missouri Breaks, Canoeing, Camping, Local Food

Upper Missouri River from the Sky

In June 2019, we were fortunate enough to be invited by the infamous Glenn Monahan on a flight tracing the Upper Missouri River from Helena to Fred Robinson Bridge. These photos are a journey from the sky of our favorite places on the river. They truly make evident the vast expanse beyond the shores of the river, and, moreover, the deep, twisting, braided gullies, coulees and drainages that form the lower section of the Upper Missouri River Breaks. The images of this landscape evoke power, magnitude and majesty. Who would have thought a river flowing through the prairie would command this presence.

The RiverHaley MillerJanuary 22, 2021Upper Missouri Breaks, Lewis and Clark

Hiking in the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument via River

Hiking and off-trail exploration opportunities abound within the 149 mile stretch of the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument. There are certainly areas and trails that are heavily visited - mainly because of their accessibility and because, well, they are amazing. Then, there are areas that are largely unexplored with no established, worn trails but rather vast swaths of open range or steep coulees winding away from the river’s edge and up towards the prairie lands above.

The RiverHaley MillerSeptember 28, 2020

UMRG Policies on Coronavirus (COVID - 19)

Our policies, updated operational procedures, travel information and more in response to the Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic.

ResourcesHaley MillerMay 14, 2020

Yoga on the Banks of the Upper Missouri River

The banks of the Upper Missouri River offers an unparalleled backdrop to stretch and get energized for the day’s activities of paddling, hiking and absorbing the magnificent scenery. Yoga on the river is an added bonus to our exceptional guide service. Come practice with us!

Fun on the RiverHaley MillerApril 5, 2020Upper Missouri Breaks, Camping, Yoga

Ultimate Montana Small Town Summer Adventure

Experience small town Montana summer fun with festivals, fourth of July celebrations, history and outdoor adventure. This two week itinerary offers options for hiking, camping, canoeing, rodeos, hot springs and plenty of mingling with the locals from street fairs to parades. Come to our state and stay a while!

Upper Missouri River: Weather, Difficulty & Flow Rates

This wilderness adventure is accessible to any age and ability level. Each month offers a different experience as the weather changes throughout the spring, summer and fall seasons in Montana.

The RiverCiera KrinkeNovember 28, 2019Upper Missouri Breaks

Wildlife

The abundance and diversity of wildlife along the river has been noted since the days of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

The RiverCiera KrinkeNovember 24, 2019Upper Missouri Breaks

Geology

The spectacular and varied scenery that floaters see on the Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River is directly related to the geology of this part of central Montana.

The RiverCiera KrinkeNovember 24, 2019Upper Missouri Breaks, history

ResourcesCiera KrinkeNovember 24, 2019Upper Missouri Breaks, Lewis and Clark, Native American History