The White Cliffs of the Upper Missouri River - Sample Itinerary and Video
The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument encompasses 149 river miles, yet, arguably the most renown and visited section is the 46 miles stretch referred to as “The White Cliffs.” This magnificent section also corresponds with the most famous portion of the legendary Lewis and Clark Expedition into the West. From the eloquent and mesmerizing descriptions by Meriwether Lewis in his journal entries to the countless modern texts romanticizing the landscape and formations to the innumerable dramatic photographic opportunities along the river, this river section will always be immortalized as a pivotal piece of history. Moreover, it is unique and inspiring in that you can experience the Upper Missouri River much like the early explorers and homesteaders did—undisturbed and magnificent, and hopefully, through continued efforts towards protection and conservation, this area will remain a Wild and Scenic River.
Already interested in joining a guided trip this summer?! Please click the link below for our schedule and more information about our guide service.
Hiking throughout the White Cliffs of the Upper Missouri River.
The exploration opportunities are virtually endless in the this section. There are certainly well-travelled trails or routes, but if you are more of a ‘get out of the boat and walk’ kind of person, then do just that assuming you are on public property. Every drainage presents on-the-beaten path hiking and viewpoints. Or, if you are not a huge hiker, definitely take advantage of the short jaunts to explore the homesteads and other points of interest closer to the shore.
From the journal of Meriwether Lewis
The Corps of Discovery camped at, “the upper part of a timbered bottom on the Stard, side… just above the mouth of … a stone wall creek …” on May 31, 1805. The “stone wall creek: is today’s Eagle Creek. This is the most popular campsite on the river for good reason. It is across the river from magnificent White Cliffs, has access to a slot canyon loop hike on one side, petroglyphs on the other side up Eagle Creek and other exploration opportunities. In the quote below, Lewis is describing the scenery they passed that day (as they were laboring up river). This passage remains one of the most memorable and famous of all the journal entries.
“The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2-300 feel and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression of water’ two of three this horizontal stratas of white freestone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbeded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them …
… The water in the course of time in descending from those hills and plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the help of a little immagination and an oblique view, at a distance are make to represent eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary; collumns of various sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen supporting long galleries in front of those buildings…
… As we passed it seemed as if those scenes of visionary inchantment would never have and can, end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect indeed are those walls that I should have though that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected that she had first began her work.”
Sample Itinerary
Through this section, you will camp in actual Lewis & Clark campsites, visit tepee rings and petroglyphs and hike to spectacular off-river locations, including a slot canyon, the famed Hole in the Wall and learn about the spectacular and unique geology of this uncovered formation. Every night we read from the journals of Lewis and Clark and share stories of early homesteaders and the Native peoples who inhabited the area.
The White Cliffs section encompasses 46 miles from Coal Banks Landing, River Mile (RM) 42 (1 mile down river from Virgille, MT and about 45 minute drive from Fort Benton) to Judith Landing RM 88 (about 41 miles Southeast of Big Sandy, MT). We utilize a 3 day/2 night minimum in order to take advantage of the great hiking opportunities as well as make time to relax after paddling and exploring. But often, we prefer a 4 day/3 night itinerary for a more relaxed pace. Both are listed below.
4 day/3 night Itinerary
DAY 1
7:30 am – Meet at headquarters, load drive to Coal Banks Landing (RM 42)
10:00 am - Launch
12:00 – Lunch at Big Sandy camp, hike to tepee rings (RM 46.7)
3:30-4:00 - Arrive at camp: Eagle Creek camp (RM 56) and Lewis and Clark Campsite May 31, 1805
3:00ish – Chill, swim, hang
5:00ish – Hors d'oeuvres & cocktails
6:30ish – Dinner, dessert, fire, etc
After dinner – Walk to petroglyphs or Lewis and Clark marker
Day 2
7:00am – Coffee
8:00am - breakfast, clean up, camp tear down
10:00 – Hike through Neat Coulee
LUNCH at Eagle Creek campsite
1:00-1:30 – Pack up, leisurely
3:00ish - CAMP – Hole in the Wall (RM 63)
5:00ish – Hors d'oeuvres & cocktails
6:30ish – Dinner, dessert, fire, etc
Exploration: top of hill behind, swim, chill
Alternative campsite: Dark Butte (RM 68.8)
Day 3
7:00am – Coffee
7:30 – Start packing
8:00 – Breakfast
9:00-9:30 – Be on water
10:00ish – Float one mile, Hole in the Wall hike
12:00- 12:30ish - LUNCH – Hole in the Wall then head down the river
2:00pm - STOP – Dark Butte, potty break (RM 68.8)
3:30pm - CAMP – Slaughter River (RM 76.8)
Exploration: walk to Lewis and Clark marker
Alternative options: if camping at Dark Butte, hiking options include Steamboat Rock, exploration behind camp, downriver dispersed hike on top of White Cliffs and more.
Alternative camp options: Flat Rock (RM 80.7) or The Wall (RM 81.3)
Day 4
7:00am – Coffee
7:30 – Start packing
8:00 – Breakfast
9:00-9:30 – Be on water
10:00ish – stop at The Wall campsite, potty break, walk up to see prairie dog town (RM 81.3)
12:00 – Arrive at Judith take out, eat lunch, pack up and head back to Fort Benton (RM 88)
3 day/2 night Itinerary
DAY 1
7:30 am – Meet at headquarters, load drive to Coal Banks Landing (RM 42)
10:00am - Launch
12:00 – Lunch at Big Sandy camp, hike to tepee rings (RM 46.7)
3:30-4:00 - Arrive at camp: Eagle Creek camp (RM 56) and Lewis and Clark Campsite May 31, 1805
4:00ish – Hike through Neat Coulee
5:00ish – Hors d'oeuvres & cocktails
6:30ish – Dinner, dessert, fire, etc
After dinner – Walk to petroglyphs or Lewis and Clark marker
Day 2
7:00am – Coffee
7:30 – Walk to petroglyphs or Lewis and Clark marker
8:00am - Breakfast, clean up, camp tear down, load canoes
10:00am – Be on water
11:00am – Land at Hole in Wall, hike to Hole in the Wall (RM 63.8)
12:00-12:30 – LUNCH then head down river
2:00pm - STOP – Dark Butte, potty break (RM 68.8)
CAMP – Slaughter River (RM 76.8)
5:00ish – Hors d'oeuvres & cocktails
6:30ish – Dinner, dessert, fire, etc
Exploration: Walk to Lewis and Clark marker
Alternative camp options: Flat Rock (RM 80.7) or The Wall (RM 81.3)
Day 3
7:00am – Coffee
8:00 – Breakfast
9:00-9:30 – Be on water
10:00ish – Stop at The Wall campsite, potty break, walk up to see prairie dog town (RM 81.3)
12:00 – Arrive at Judith take out, eat lunch, pack up and head back to Fort Benton (RM 88)
Please contact us for more information and to learn more about our guided trips!